Some manufactured models printed with the same ink and curing process on both body and details will be challenging for this product. But in reality the fact that all models at all manufacturers have the same printing process in that always- The TOP coat is on the BOTTOM coat. This situation is most favorable. Regardless, extra care and patience is needed. The manufacturing, detailing, and curing process is fast. Still it is done in a logical production and layered process that literally is just a thousandth of an inch in film thickness. The task at hand is to affect chemically and wear away the visual target surfaces.

We hear many times that this product is the best "out there" (so far) for erasing that detail relatively cleanly and keeping the removal very localized for easier touch up. The legion of hobby model manufacturers developing inks, paints, and newer curing techniques are never ending and getting faster. Dare we say better at it? But it mostly is about economics, making it faster with lesser human interface on the production lines. So it remains always a challenge for us here. So far, we are pretty darn good at it. 

• You will need a comfortable place to work, well lit, and access to water / rinsing. Water will degrade or stop the chemical action.

• Small detail removal will require small tools, i.e. artist brushes cut back to a shorter length to make them stiffer. Tooth picks for fine application only.

• Plastic wrap cut into small squares to cover applied gel areas in the event that extended times are necessary for removals is a good idea to have ahead of time. This stops evaporation.

• The gel must be well mixed. When the blue color is completely uniform, then it can be used.

• Do not get any gel on clear styrene plastic- it will be damaged.

Application:

 Remove only small amounts from the bottle as can be used in one application to cover the desired area. Keeping the bottle closed is important to the effective shelf life.

Most modelers do not know what the finishes are on their model. It is a good idea to test the gel on a small discrete area of the model, perhaps the underside, to see how the gel reacts first with the base paint finish. If it dissolves paint or ink within 5 minutes of sitting, then it is likely that you will have to perform touch up to the base paint finish after removal of the detail that is on top of the base paint. Usually, the base paint is of stronger bond and integrity than the top finish detailing. 

If not quickly affected, then it's safe to go to the detailing with an application of the gel. Apply just enough to cover the detail to the point that you can't see it. Let it sit for 5 minutes. Using artist brush cut back to a stiffer bristle, begin to rub the gel against the detail. Doing this until there is visible evidence of the detailing starting to lose color or a decal starting to break apart. Remember, decals are sheet films- they will lift and slide off or break apart rather than wear off. Many times the decals are under a clear coat. That clear coat need to be dealt with first.

The abrasive added to this product is micro-ground marine fossil shell formed over millennia and processed into different grades. Although it appears like a white flour left over after it dries, it is not a smoothing powder. Under a microscope the edges of the particles are sharp. This is what we want in this product. Therefore do not rub the dry powder against the finish to experiment. Unless you desire a worn out appearance to the details. A warm water soapy rinse will clean the residue.

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